THE INNER RING:A VIENNA CITY GUIDE
It’s often said that in Vienna, culture is preserved in aspic. A quick roam around the city center and that’s easy to see. There’s the gilded, baroque architecture, the shops filled to the hilt with crafted goods from a bygone era and, of course, desserts and more desserts. The towering confections painstakingly produced throughout the city, including, notably, at the Sacher Hotel, where the Sachertorte—a chocolate cake made with a thin layer of apricot jam—has elicited a line of hungry visitors at the hotel’s café for decades, long before any hype-driven desserts came to be known through Instagram.
To say that the Sacher Hotel is a Viennese institution would be to sell it short. Like many European cities and their legendary grand hotels, the Sacher is as cherished a landmark as the Vienna State Opera house, which is just a stone’s throw from the hotel’s front steps.
Its doors first opened in 1876 as the brainchild of Eduard Sacher, an enterprising restauranteur-turned-hotelier, and his wife Anna Sacher, who was known equally for her discerning taste for gastronomy and interior design as she was for her penchant for cigars and English bulldogs.
Together, in a plan that feels plucked straight from the modern-day hospitality playbook, the couple built a restaurant and hotel concept based on desserts, most notably a torte made by Eduard’s father Franz, a talented confectioner, which was served during a state dinner in 1832. This would become an international calling card for the hotel, and over the years guests including President John F. Kennedy, Queen Elizabeth II, Plácido Domingo, and John Lennon and Yoko Ono have indulged in the coveted treat.
Today, the hotel is looked after by co-owner Alexandra Winkler, a born and bred resident of Vienna, whose great-grandfather bought the hotel in 1934, a few years after Anna Sacher died. Through Alexandra’s eyes, one can see that there is an insider’s Vienna that exists beyond the obvious tourist spots. Here, she selected some of her favorite stops on a tour of the Austrian capital, timed perfectly for the holidays or any other moment in the year.
Alexandra’s List
“Café Prückel is a beloved Viennese coffee house, close to the Museum of Applied Arts and right on the central Ringstrasse. It has an incredible interior by the architect Oswald Haerdtl from the 1950s, with lots of curved mid-century lines and dusty pink hues.”
“For a coffee to-go, there is no better place in Vienna. Fenster means ‘window,’ and the coffee is served from a small window that could be easily missed when walking by.”
“This is a Vienna institution for lunch, and it’s inside one of the most historic Viennese Art Nouveau buildings. They serve an unimaginable variety of sandwiches and have lots of tables outside that are perfect for people-watching.”
“A visit to the Saturday flea market, followed by lunch at the Naschmarkt, is a favorite day out. The market has lots of casual, non-Viennese restaurants all within a stone’s throw of each other. It’s a bit like a buzzy outdoor food hall.”
“Located in Stadtpark, Meierei is the more casual sister restaurant to chef Heinz Reitbauer’s Steirereck. It serves modern interpretations of Viennese cuisine, but it’s not too fussy. ‘Meierei’ means ‘dairy farm’ in German, so one of my favorite offerings is the selection of 150 cheeses.”
“C.O.P., meaning ‘Collection of Produce,’ is another newcomer led by chef Elihay Berliner. Its open kitchen and large format sharing plates feels fun and convivial, alongside an unexpected wine list not often found in the city.”
“A thriving newcomer in Vienna. Mraz & Sohn is a family-owned and -operated restaurant. They have two Michelin stars, but the setting feels unpretentious. The space is a total work of art with a wonderful garden for guests. My husband and I were blown away!”
“For dessert, I know I’m supposed to say the original Sachertorte, which I love of course, or the Kaiserschmarrn, which we also serve at the hotel, but for desserts elsewhere, I love Kurkonditorei Oberlaa. The lemon cake and the baked cheesecake are a must-have.”
“The space may be small, but Loosbar is a great stop for a casual cocktail. Every element of the interior, including the ceiling, makes for a charming scene, all designed by the legendary Adolf Loos.”
“The Spanish Riding School in Vienna is unlike any other place in the world, truly, because nowhere else does equestrian training exist in its original form. Audiences gather every day to witness the grace and beauty of the riders on their pristine Lipizzaner stallions, all set to music. For me, it’s pure poetry in motion.”
“Depending on the season, going on a hiking tour of the Viennese vineyards and woods is certainly one of the most authentic Austrian experiences you will ever have and not often explored by many visitors. Start off on the top of the Kahlenberg with a pristine view over the entire Vienna basin and work your way down to Grinzing, stopping by Mayer am Nussberg. It’s a dream for nature lovers and wine connoisseurs.”
“Ingo Nebehay is an antiquarian books–and-prints seller located in the city center. Its exterior has a slightly Wes Anderson quality, and inside there are layers and layers of fascinating finds.”
“The renowned Austrian glassmaker has a deep-rooted connection to Vienna’s iconic Hotel Sacher. Known for its exquisite craftsmanship, Lobmeyr’s hand-cut crystal chandeliers illuminate the hotel’s interiors, while its glassware graces the dining tables, adding a touch of timeless elegance. A visit to Lobmeyr’s historic store around the corner offers an opportunity to experience the beauty of their craftsmanship firsthand and to take home a piece of Austrian design legacy.”
“Vaugoin, a family-owned silversmith established in 1847, is renowned for its impeccable craftsmanship and rich history in Vienna. The brand’s exquisite silverware, created using traditional techniques passed down through generations, adds a timeless elegance to the dining experiences at the Hotel Sacher. Known for its bespoke designs and unmatched quality, Vaugoin continues to produce everything from cutlery to ornate centerpieces in its historic workshop. A visit to Vaugoin in Vienna offers a behind-the-scenes look at their artisanal process and an opportunity to acquire a piece of Austria’s enduring silversmithing legacy.”
“Located right around the corner from the Hotel Sacher, it’s a shoppable gallery that showcases established and emerging artists across disciplines: paintings, sculptures, etcetera. They have a certain charm and unique approach to service, so even if I’m not shopping, the gallery is still an inspiring place to be.”
